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BoulderingTrip Journal

Easy to Moderate Climbs in Rocklands that are Fun for Shorties (Non-Morpho)

By September 8, 2024No Comments

I couldn’t find a list like this, and Rocklands actually has an innumerable amount of climbs to choose from. Climbs listed below are separated by crag. Grades are, as always, somewhat subjective so I am using the ones that are posted on 27crags. For reference, I’m 5’2″ or 158cm with a 0 ape index. I have either completed the problem listed, or they were recommended by people of similar dimensions that I climbed with over the past month in Rocklands, South Africa.

Rocklands: an endless sea of sandstone.

8 Day Rain

  • Trackside Arête
    • Details: V4+ • 6C, flat landing, easy approach.
    • My 2¢: nice movement, felt closer to V3 for me. Could be a good problem to work for newer climbers.
  • To Siemay
    • Details: V5 • 6C+, flat landing, <20 minute uphill approach.
    • My 2¢: loved this one except for when I fell off the top jug because I was too pumped. Aesthetic ripple-y face, tough first move, crimpy.

Sassies

  • Arcade Fire
    • Details: V3+ • 6B, flat landing, ~15 minute approach unless you have AWD/4WD.
    • My 2¢: aesthetic face on beautiful grey rock, first move crux for me. Thought it was harder than Trackside Arête but that’s how it goes. One of the best of the grade in Rocklands.
  • Les Guns
    • Details: V2 • 6A, flat landing, same boulder as Arcade Fire.
    • My 2¢: cool, juggy roof. Rock and top out left a bit to be desired for me but still fun.
  • Maties
    • Details: V6 • 7A, flat landing, a bit closer to the parking than Arcade.
    • My 2¢: I thought the rock left enough to be desired that I did not try it but I was told it offers great movement, for shorties and otherwise.
The Last Boy Scout, thank you to Becky Zunigar for the video!

Danger Zone

  • The Last Boy Scout
    • Details: V4+ • 6C, flat landing, <10 minute approach.
    • My 2¢: fun climbing on beautiful, bullet rock. Highly recommend!
  • Shark Attack
    • Details: V7 • 7B, flat landing, <15 minute approach.
    • My 2¢: very good left heel hook practice. Small crimps to start with but they are kinder to you if you use the heel hook properly. I think it’s tougher for shorties due to a couple big moves off the left heel. I felt close the first session but did not come back to finish it because I liked other problems better.

Road Crew

  • Orange Heart
    • Details: V4+ • 6C, flat landing, ~ 1 hour uphill approach with a bit of scrambling.
    • My 2¢: this comes highly recommended for all climbers. I can report that it is a stunning face and top of my list for next year.
  • Texas Gun Laws
    • Details: V0 • 4, flat landing, just before Orange Heart.
    • My 2¢: best of the grade that I did. Really good rock with a variety of fun holds. Great warm-up.
  • Mannerheim Roof
    • Details: V5 • 6C+, flat landing, few minutes longer uphill from the others mentioned.
    • My 2¢: I thought this problem was dingy looking and didn’t try it but my shortie friend loved it.
Girl On Our Mind, video thanks to Spenser 🙂

Plateau

  • Girl On Our Mind
    • Details: V4+ • 6C, reasonably flat landing but need a few pads to properly protect due to length, <15 minute approach.
    • My 2¢: lives up to the hype, one of the best of the grade and fun for all heights.
  • Coal Chamber
    • Details: V4 • 6B+, flat landing, same boulder as Girl.
    • My 2¢: pretty big deadpoint moves on a beautiful face with really good rock. Not a gimme at the end as shorties need to do a significant lunge to a satisfyingly massive jug. For me, the crux was down low, 3 hand moves in, because I needed to use a spicy intermediate crimp that was hard for to get right and move off of.
  • RSA
    • Details: V3+ • 6B, tiered landing that is awkward to pad the beginning of, same boulder as Girl.
    • My 2¢: I thought this was a good warm-up, especially if you start by just doing the top few moves into the top out.
  • Zanzibar
    • Details: V6/7 • 7A+, tiered landing that requires minimum 4 pads to properly protect, <15 minute approach.
    • My 2¢: varied climbing on a prominent and aesthetic arête feature. Very crimpy and quite sharp, many people tape up for this one. It is quite tall but the top third is easy movement on good holds.
Zanzibar, thanks to Becky again for the video – and Lana for the beta!

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